If you use the typical sheet of acrylic plastic (Plexiglas is the expensive brand name but the cheap stuff is the same thing) is shiny so you get reflections of the subject off the floor of the light table. Set Shop Tutorials: "Learn How To Build A Light Table" Featuring Steve Sint - YouTube Here is a good tutorial on how to DIY a shooting table. A brightened edge will bleed into the background ( and that's what you get when your subject and illuminated background are in physical contact !!!). I always prefer a subject with a dark edge against a white background. By keeping the background small, I can eliminate those halo reflections from spherical subjects. By separating the subject and background, ( and lighting them separately ) I command full control over the rendition of my subject. At the bottom of the saw horses ( on the floor ), I place a white piece of background, as small as possible, while covering my image area in camera. Whenever I shoot subjects intended to have white backgrounds, I setup a sheet of plate glass, suspended on ( foldable ) saw horses. DIY lighting is always better than store bought solutions! It's like all of these shooting tents everyone is selling now. ![]() I think that your present setup will produce images with less issues, because there will be less bothersome reflections off of your subjects. Having your subject sitting directly on a bright light source, can introduce more problems than you're having now!!! I'm not too sure about tables being so "professional". What you've got now seems to work fine but for safety I'd add support at the front. Not cheap but if you this work regularly, well worth it. Those last two brands show up on eBay from time to time. I have also worked with one made from Speedrail components and plexiglass, and also the Foba and Cambo models. It needs heavier duty plexiglass and that means you need to find a source for it and have it bent to the shape you desire and that's fine if you have the space to leave it set up. I have one of these lightweight wonders and well, it doesn't totally work. I'm wondering if anyone has used such a table for large scale product photography? Is it a good idea at all to light the surface to eliminate shadows or will it produce an amateurish glow around the product? Is the material itself sturdy enough to carry heavier products or groups of products without bending? Any advice on tables or alternatives in general? With mounting options for your lights at the bottom, so you can flash through the white surface Most product photography tables look like this: ![]() But I want something more robust and professional.
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